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<P>我知道，今夜，我会想凤凰。</P>
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<DIV>来之前，在一本书上看到新西兰诗人路易*艾黎赞美凤凰是中国最美丽的小镇。初见凤凰，印证了这句话的真实。她静静的流淌，在古老斑驳的岁月里，静静的流淌了千年。只为了你，为了你刹那的回眸。</DIV>
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沱江。</DIV><DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV>去凤凰，是在雪灾。选择坐火车去，但由于雪灾时期，提早五天也很难买到票。但执着前行。于是，我与扎西买上站票，站在过道里，度过火车上13个小时。半夜，到达吉首。一大早，我们便前往凤凰。初见它，视线忽然变得开阔。沱江一泻千里，吊脚楼错落在江的两岸。她没有丽江小桥流水人家的婀娜多姿。少了几分女性的轻柔，难得的是多了几分刚硬，有一气呵成的大气。碧绿的江水从古老的城墙里蜿蜒而过，翠绿的两岸清山倒映江心。江中游船数点，山间暮鼓晨钟。河畔吊脚楼轻烟袅袅，错落有致，叠叠仄仄的黑瓦连成一片。河边还不时传来捣衣声，让我不由得频频回顾。</DIV>
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我在沱江的吊脚楼下吃饭。<WBR></DIV><DIV> <WBR></DIV>
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<DIV>我打从吊脚楼走过，竹竿上挂着五颜六色的花色衣裳，足让人想象楼上人家的故事。只是如今窗外的那块蓝印花布，并没有翠翠探出头来，嫣然一笑，佯羞不出来。</DIV>
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<DIV>凤凰的人，无一不有着沈老笔下《边城》的真性格。无论是客栈的阿姨，卖货吆喝的老板，还是店里挥动铲子炒菜的厨子，与人谈话，亲切直爽。纵使今年因为雪灾天气，影响出游的旅客。街口巷子里有寒冬的冷清，可人情的温暖如三月春花，繁华极胜。</DIV>
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船坞。</DIV><DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV>为了凭吊我爱的诗人——沈从文。他的小说《边城》是清水出芙蓉，天然去雕饰。我特意去了他的墓地，在凤凰古城的听涛山上。他生于凤凰，长于凤凰，长眠于凤凰。他的墓碑是天然的五彩石，不加雕琢，犹如他的文风，看似信手拈来，却不落痕迹，恰到好处。墓碑背面有句话，我记得深。“不折不从，星斗其文。亦慈亦让，赤子其人”。古人说“以文论人，未免失偏颇”。我看不尽然。有沈从文的谦卑，淡泊，才可映衬出他的词清丽句。是素色的丹青画卷，不食人间烟火之象。</DIV>
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仍用沱江水，洗衣做饭的当地人。</DIV><WBR><DIV> <WBR></DIV>
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<DIV>夜来无事。欹枕江边，杳杳没孤鸿。凤凰的夜色，是舞动的鱼龙。凤萧声动，玉壶光转。何妨三五好友任一扁舟，菱歌泛夜，乘醉听萧鼓，吟赏烟霞。</DIV>
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在路边买了农妇手编的花环，戴在头上。</DIV><DIV> </DIV>
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在龙豆上，刻着“初遇便与许平生”</DIV><DIV>
在凤凰过的情人节。</DIV><DIV> </DIV>
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吊脚楼。</DIV><DIV> </DIV>
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<DIV>今夜。在梦里，我又开始流浪，流浪远方。</DIV>
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<DIV> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR></DIV>
<DIV> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> 谨以纪念行走凤凰。</DIV>
<DIV> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> <WBR> 2008。2月12——16日</DIV><!-- -->
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