今日终于得见农民工庐山真面目dd57001

记得曾经看过一部电影介绍，说是一个商人自己出资，拍了一部纪录片，名字好象是《寻找香巴拉》。片中作者苦苦的寻找，很多地方都很象，究竟哪个是真？最后得到一位高僧的点化：香巴拉（香格里拉）现在中并不存在，但存在于人们的心目。而今，我们只在乎寻找的过程，也正是这个信念支撑，我们超越了自己体能的极限。<br><br>上山的路并不好走，全是泥泞，路面已被牛马踩得不成样子，登山鞋又渗水，只得在山石上玩蹦跳。鲁迅曾讲过：世上本没有路。走的人多了也就成了路！但眼下这条路也真是：<br><br><br><br><br>乌云也慢慢的散去，前方豁然开朗，阳光遍洒，雪山、森林、云雾尽次展现。依旧堆满乱石的山溪，虽然我们不是学地质的，但也知道这里曾经经历泥石流的洗礼。已近中午时分，已行走了3小时多，大家开始觉得腹中空空，在林间找到一片空地，大家席地而坐，饼干、压缩干粮、火腿肠便是午餐。<br><br><br><br><br>走了这么长时间，山上见有三两牧民下来。问上山还要多长时间，说是还要2小时，于是大家鼓劲继续走下去，因为我们不想这么轻易放弃。<br><br><br><br><br>继续走了2小时，转过一片稀疏的杉木林，一处开满山花的山脊出现眼前，以为到了目的地。可是再问一下另一队下山的牧民，说：到山顶还有1个多小时。<br><br><br><br><br>这片草地盛开着黄色的小花，花香淡淡，身体被暖暖阳光包裹着，浑身舒坦，人也懒洋洋的。<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>

走了这么长的路，路面又差，慢慢的觉得脚指头十分疼痛，估计已经起水泡，信念开始动摇了。<br><br>下午4点，我们又走进这个山谷，前面出现一片小水塘，水草丰美，使得大家眼前一亮——香巴拉！？<br><br><br><br><br>塘边小景。<br><br><br><br><br>估计这里海拔至少有4000米，那知花草极盛，牛马成群，有数间牧民的木屋参差其中。我们仿佛进入了另一个世界，陶渊明笔下的《桃花源记》亦不过如此。<br><br><br><br><br>木屋、围栏，牛儿哞哞叫声，夹杂着清脆的铃铛声在山谷中回荡。这里没有喧嚣，人们忙碌而有序。<br><br><br><br><br>静谧，和谐，人间乐土。<br><br><br><br><br>水壶的水已经喝光了，口干舌燥，于是便到一户牧民的木屋中找水。女户主很热情的招呼我们，男主人正修补工具，大家虽然累但还是挺精神的……<br><br><br><br><br><br>

哗，好美的地方呀

与这户人家道谢后，我们继续上路。<br><br><br><br><br>一队放牧归来的藏胞告诉我们，大约再走半小时，翻过前面的山头就到了。我们想恐怕要1个多小时，嘿嘿，这他们算得的时间得乘以2才接近真实。<br><br><br><br><br>这时，天空开始飘起小雨，在我们前面已经没有所谓的路，长长一大片高山杜鹃權木丛拦住我们的脚步。<br><br>高山杜鹃。<br><br><br><br><br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 我和阿毛年纪最大，商量一下，估计再用1小时也未必能到湖边，现在是4点多，离
9点天黑还有5个小时，恐怕5小时内到不了鲁朗镇，山中夜行非安全计。于是我们与长毛他们分手，先行下山。继续寻找天湖的只剩三人——长毛、、八云和阿永。此时，体质最差的阿Kit已经提前1小时下山了。<br><br>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 天色已慢慢变暗，我和阿毛有点担心。身上没有带头灯，下山路又不好走，脚板又痛得要命，基本上是咬着牙走的。这次真的是“眼睛上天堂，身体下地狱”了。<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 再次见到这段枯木，已经是晚上8：06了，此时天空还有一点余光，仅能见到山路。<br><br><br><br></div>
<div><br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 真的想象不到我俩最后是怎么样摸回客栈，时间刚好是9点，离我们早上出发足足12小时，往返全程约40公里。猛然发现，原来店中的板凳可以这样的舒服。40分钟后，长毛他们回来了。他们兴奋得不得了，完全忘记脚上的伤痛。拿出相机，给我们看拍到的湖，这个果然是火山湖。<br><br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 高山湖泊，湖水异常冰冷，回程时他们不想再穿越荆棘丛，于是便淌水过湖水出口的另一侧。冰冷的湖水没过膝盖，短短的十来二十米，他们差点冻僵在河心。</div><br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 从相机中，我和阿毛总算完了一个梦。<br><br><br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br><br><br>
[ 本帖最后由 迷惘的农民工 于 2009-4-8 22:23 编辑 ]

能用这样的方式慢慢欣赏如此美的景色是人生的美事.
当时的疲倦都会在将来的回忆中觉得那就是一场梦吧.

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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;" align="center"><b><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">十七、沉醉<span lang="EN-US">“</span>东方瑞士<span lang="EN-US">” </span></span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">第二天清晨，双脚已然长了水泡，登山鞋很硬，磨得脚板隐隐作痛，走起路来一拐一拐的。<span lang="EN-US"><br>
<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>鲁朗镇美得让人陶醉，这个宁静的小镇给人一种与世无争的感觉，因为它的美，让人不舍不得离开。镇上行人廖廖可数，虽说是国道但公路上来往车辆很少，偶然间路过此地的班车大放喇叭招揽生意而惊扰了这里的平静。<span lang="EN-US"><br>
<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>经过昨天<span lang="EN-US">12</span>小时的徒步，大家都似乎耗尽了所有的精力，阿毛他们本来打算今天骑车翻越色季拉山口去八一镇的，现在只好搭车了。事实上只有<span lang="EN-US">1</span>个多小时的车程，他们并没有立即离开的意思，故决定继续和我们再去领略天堂般的鲁朗镇。<span lang="EN-US"><br>
<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>五寨沟位于鲁朗镇西面的山谷中，其实我们在色季拉山口上早就看过，也就是鲁朗林海的所在地，只是当时不知名称罢了。现在似要开发成景区，而且还修建一些别墅，供游人住宿。据称，全部完成可能是两年之后，因此暂时是免费的，破坏得还不算严重。（<span lang="EN-US">PS</span>：如果想看看原生态的朋友不要错过了，不敢想象再过两年会是什么样子）。<br><br></span><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CRick%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">远处山下，一束阳光洒在围场上，斑斑驳驳。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;"><br></span>

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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">山谷中散落的民居，主人不知何处，门前很清静，也没有犬吠。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p><br></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">今天出门天气特好，但天空白云还是时聚时散，忽晴忽暗，可丝毫没有影响我们。可能景致不断的变幻着，我们竟然没有任何审美疲劳。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">著名的<span lang="EN-US">318</span>国道将美丽不断的向前延伸。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">难怪阿<span lang="EN-US">Kit</span>情不自禁做一个到此一游的姿势。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">再次返回国道，阿毛他们与我们道别，他们将搭车去八一镇休整，之后继续他们的征程。而现在又剩下我们三人，忽地大家觉得一种说不出的失落。虽然彼此认识才一天，但大家已然成为好朋友，此次分别不知何时再重逢。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">从<span lang="EN-US">318</span>国道旁远远的望去，自己仿佛置身于阿尔卑斯山下。山下是围栏牧场，围栏内长满丰美的牧草，有时还有大片的油菜花。这里是花的海洋，绿草的海洋。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">时值六月，白天气温才<st1:chmetcnv unitname="℃" sourcevalue="23" hasspace="False" negative="False" numbertype="1" tcsc="0" w:st="on"><span lang="EN-US">23</span>℃</st1:chmetcnv>左右，这里一派晚春的景象，鲜花盛开，微风中夹杂着淡淡的花香。用<span lang="EN-US">“</span>高原上的江南<span lang="EN-US">”</span>来概括真的最恰当不过了。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">也曾在广东英德见过油菜花，但环境与这里是无法相比的，感受截然不同。因为少却高山、少却森林、少了围栏，更少了蓝天和清新的空气。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">移步换景，徒步是最好的选择。我提出去山边的村落走走，但长毛有点担心，不想惊扰山村的平静，大家只好作罢。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">路边的崩巴才村，是广东东莞援建的，有份亲切感。村旁有小河流过，走近屋前，主人家好象不在，惟有一犬吠声。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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[ 本帖最后由 迷惘的农民工 于 2009-4-23 22:28 编辑 ]

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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">我想不出任何优美的形容词，只能用<span lang="EN-US">“</span>人间仙境<span lang="EN-US">”</span>一词了。将近鲁朗镇，但依旧风光旖旎。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">此行将要结束，依旧无限留恋。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">那山、那水，永远的留存相机内，存留于脑海中。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">一切的文字、图片记述都显得肤浅，惟有有心才会体会。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">回头走过的路，也许将来某一天我会故地重游。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><br><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体; color: red;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">这就是“东方瑞士”——鲁朗！<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">鲁朗镇的全貌，这里留下我全部的记忆。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p><br></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">已是下午<span lang="EN-US">2</span>点，去波密县的班车已经没有了，餐馆老板为我们找车的事到处奔忙，使我们感动不已，为他做一下广告，嘿嘿！<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<P>旁晚本已喝得有点醉意，如今已酩酊大醉了！</P>
<P>我曾在飞鱼兄的《老照片》感慨：老照片不老!感觉很好！</P>
<P>只因鱼兄你会飞，又带我们把梦追，老饭丹巴想八美，大雄西行不想回，民工屋脊留深忆，早把我等灌大醉！ 现在又醉一回！值！</P>

每一幅照片都象油画一样，色彩鲜艳——美！

<P>农民的每次更新，带来的都是一种视觉的享受！dd80001</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P>&nbsp;dd59001 看着那天堂般的美景，总让人无比向往和神弛！</P>

农民工的这篇精彩游记，值得你好好回味一生了。
农民工什么时候故地重游，一定要带上我，那种坚决叫义无反顾。:handshake

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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;" align="center"><b><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">十八、炼狱之旅<span lang="EN-US">——</span>波密</span></b><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">事实上我们此次青藏高原行异常的幸运，路上总有惊无险，还处处遇到意外的惊喜。虽然店家为我们找了好几辆车，但不是包车的费用太高，就是过路货车不能同时坐下三人。于是，大家打算再住一晚等明天的班车了。恰恰此时有辆途经的<span lang="EN-US">TOYOTA 4500</span>越野车经过，刚好又是到波密的，讨价后<span lang="EN-US">70</span>元<span lang="EN-US">/</span>人成交，算是专车了，感谢幸运之神！<span lang="EN-US"><br>
<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>汽车刚出鲁朗镇便是贡错湖，透过车窗，我们惊呆了，只怪自己为什么在鲁朗时不往东面再走一二公里？风景极美，虽然部分开发，但保护得还算好，就在<span lang="EN-US">G318</span>旁边。（<span lang="EN-US">PS</span>：去鲁朗的朋友一定不要错过，离镇上才两公里。）<span lang="EN-US"><br>
<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>三四个小时的车程，<span lang="EN-US">G318</span>线在峡谷中穿行，峡谷内山间云雾缭绕，深深的峡谷下面只听到帕隆藏布在咆哮着，水流极为湍急，恐怕一二节列车掉下去也会瞬间消失得无影无踪的。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">传说中的<span lang="EN-US">“</span>通麦天险<span lang="EN-US">”</span>指的就是这里，路况极差，全是泥泞，已不是先前的柏油路，要命的是还有山体滑坡和塌方出现。司机很老练，车子开得很快。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">因途中有电缆工程施工，稍停顿了一下，我们认识了一队骑摩托车横穿青藏高原的车队。羡慕一下<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 21pt;"><span style="">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">到达波密已是傍晚，这里还是有点时差的感觉，因为是阴天间或下点小雨，天空比较暗。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">凭印象，波密是峡谷中的一座小城，一面靠山，一面临江，<span lang="EN-US">G318</span>穿城而过。它被喻为<span lang="EN-US">“</span>冰川之乡<span lang="EN-US">”</span>，在县城边便可感知一二，六月份对这里来说是比较温暖的了，但山上依然有厚厚的积雪。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 21pt;"><span lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 21pt;"><span lang="EN-US">&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">我们入住的是“波密青年旅舍”，是阿毛告诉我们的，一进店，便见墙上贴满各地驴友拍的片片，典型的“驴窝”设计，也不知店主从哪里学的。房费<span lang="EN-US">20</span>元<span lang="EN-US">/</span>人。旅馆比较简陋，但倒也干净，还提供洗衣机供驴友使用。对一些要借宿的僧侣、司机，老板总说住满了，但我们看房间还比较空，因问何故，他却反问：<span lang="EN-US">“</span>你们愿意和这些人住一起吗？我一般不会在你们住的房间安排陌生人，但不是旅游旺季时是会接待的。<span lang="EN-US">”</span>——生意招式？<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">我们并没有打算在波密玩的，只是作为中转站，但波密县与然乌之间有个著名的<span lang="EN-US">“</span>米堆冰川<span lang="EN-US">”</span>我们倒想走一趟。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
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&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">晚上，和老板聊天，得知我们在鲁朗<st1:chmetcnv unitname="公里" sourcevalue="40" hasspace="False" negative="False" numbertype="1" tcsc="0" w:st="on"><span lang="EN-US">40</span>公里</st1:chmetcnv>山路徒步了<span lang="EN-US">12</span>小时，称我们是<span lang="EN-US">“</span>强驴<span lang="EN-US">”</span>，我们真有点沾沾自喜。他极力推荐：波密也有一个十分值得徒步的地方<span lang="EN-US">——</span>岗乡国家自然保护区（含古乡湖），景色绝妙，是我国三条值得徒步的线路之一，另一条是<span lang="EN-US">“</span>墨脱<span lang="EN-US"> ”</span>，再一条<span lang="EN-US">……</span>嘿嘿，我忘记了名字。<span lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>看来不走一趟枉称<span lang="EN-US">“</span>强驴<span lang="EN-US">”</span>！<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">老板还说，等一下还有三个跟我们一样的驴友回来，到时看他们想不想走这条线。于是，机缘巧合我们又认识了一对欢喜冤家和阿龙，在往后的行程大家基本上一起结伴而行。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">阿龙，在深圳工作，这次出门快一个月了，坐车从青藏公路入，此前去了北京和西安玩，是突然想到要入藏的。另一对喜欢冤家，女的叫<span lang="EN-US">“</span>小燕子<span lang="EN-US"> ”</span>，也在深圳工作，四川人，男的是台湾人，他们在印度认识后相约一同进藏。阿龙在路上结识他们后便一起走了。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">阿龙私下跟我们说，他受够了这对冤家，白天净吵架，晚上又好到不得了，阿龙同他们合住一房间，只能充耳不闻。嘿嘿，实在够他受的。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>

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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">第二天早上，按原计划有<span lang="EN-US">11</span>人同往，包两辆小面包车的，可是天公不作美，一直下着小雨，另外的<span lang="EN-US">5</span>个驴友放弃了，只有我们三人与阿龙他们起程，这就是“噩梦”的开始。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">天空飘着小雨，路上尽是泥泞，慢慢的步入丛林。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<br><br><p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">雨中，四周朦朦胧胧，看不到青山，大家只顾低头找路。路两旁三三两两的有野生桃树，树上结满拇指般大小的小桃子，要是三四月到此一定是桃花满路、鲜花遍地。<span lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span>早上气温有点低，我穿上密不透气的冲锋衣，外面又罩上雨衣，越走越热，可以感觉得到袖子已被冷凝的汗水弄湿，雨衣也湿湿的，难受死了。路极难行，到处是积水、小溪，登山鞋偏偏又开始渗水。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">帕隆藏布在古乡这段显得十分平静，与通麦段有天渊之别。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">由于是冲积平原，水道纵横，分割的小岛土地肥沃，尽是密林和灌木。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style=""><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 24pt;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">已进入古乡湖的入口，虽然下雨，但雨中景色别有风味。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">好象没有人家，但随处可见放养的牲口。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">途中偶遇一队上山挖天麻的村姑，她们打打闹闹、边走边唱，只是大家语言不通，搭不上几句话。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span><br></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">转到湖边，烟雨青山分外秀丽。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">朦胧的走在雨中，忽然眼前出现一片青稞地，便知已走过人烟稀少之处，快到岗村了。事实上即便是岗村，村里人口也并不多。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">回头望走过的丛林，要不是有青稞地，我们还真不敢相信这里与世隔绝，还会有人居住。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">青稞成熟了，但好象没有人去收割。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">进村一看，民居极为简陋，全是木板房。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">嘿！路面全是<span lang="EN-US">10</span>多公分深的泥浆，而且还夹杂着腐草，到处粪水横流。短短的三四里路，我们足足走了整整<span lang="EN-US">1</span>个小时。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">在村中找向导，犹豫中，且停且走。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;" align="left"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;">村子里有点平地便种上青稞和土豆。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: 24pt;"><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 宋体;" lang="EN-US"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p>
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